Chris Bulow

Pig enthusiast

What more do you need to bring flavour to your table than these three ingredients, asks Maltese born Nicole? And she’s right. Her food is all about umami and taste. Having been head chef at Yotam’s restaurant, Nopi, she was unexpectedly offered a job cooking at a Hackney primary school. She accepted. From there she went on to start Chefs In Schools — a charitable initiative — that’s working to show that school dinners can (and must) be cooked with love, good ingredients and by cooks who know how important this one, single meal is to hundreds of thousands of kids. There’s not room in this review for more detail or political polemic but you know why she and her work is so important. Favourites from here inc. Smoked Monkfish with Kimchi and Lambs Neck with Aubergine Nam Prik.